Chemical Peels
Chemical peeling refers to the application of a chemical agent to cause selective injury (necrosis) to the epidermis and upper dermis with the aim of rejuvenating the skin. Based on the depth of the skin injury, chemical peels are categorized as superficial (epidermal), medium (epidermal/dermal) or deep (deep papillary, papillary/reticular). At our practice we mostly perform Superficial Chemical Peels, and these are described in more detail below.
Superficial Peels have become one of the most popular cosmetic and anti-ageing procedures worldwide. Superficial peels induce necrosis and subsequent removal of only the outer layers of the epidermis. Amongst the most widely used chemical peeling agents is glycolic acid, which is extracted from sugar cane and belongs to the AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) fruit acids. Usually, a Superficial Chemical Peel is a lunch-time procedure, which doesn’t have any down time (i.e., shows no visible signs of healing). It shows an immediate improvement in skin texture, provides a clearer and brighter complexion and a more hydrated and radiant skin.
About Superficial Chemical Peels
Glycolic acid is a medical grade product, and it is highly effective as an exfoliant. The depth of exfoliation/peeling may vary depending on the pH and concentration of the glycolic acid used. Glycolic acid peeling removes an outer layer of epidermis - stratum corneum that consists of “dead skin cells’, yielding skin that is smoother in texture and more evenly pigmented. Since the start of the use of chemical peels in medical aesthetics, it has been demonstrated in numerous clinical studies that application of AHA’s results in an up to 25% increase in skin thickness, improved quality of elastic fibres and increased density of collagen. Glycolic acid is also a good moisturising agent that increases hydration of the skin. Many popular chemical peeling kits (e.g., NeoStrata, Filorga, etc) contain additional active ingredients to assist in treatment of hyperpigmentation and acne.
Usually, the peeling procedure takes approximately 30 minutes, and it is performed in a few steps: cleansing of the skin, pre-peeling treatment, peeling and finally post peeling treatment (i.e., neutralisation of glycolic acid and hydration). During the peeling procedure you may experience mild stinging, burning, or itching of the skin. This mild discomfort usually disappears during the post peeling step. Similarly to microdermabrasion (non-chemical exfoliation) visible improvement in skin texture and complexion can be appreciated immediately after the first peel. However, to obtain more radical and a long-term improvement, a series of chemical peels are recommended followed by maintenance treatments over time. Chemical peels may be performed on the face, neck, décolleté, hands and other parts of the body. It is beneficial for both female and male clients, from the age of 16 years and older, and may be safely applied to all skin types (including Asian and African skins).
What Can Be Treated With Superficial Chemical Peels?
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The prescribed course of glycolic peel series will gradually improve the following conditions:
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sun damaged skin
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enlarged pores
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poor/rough skin texture and unclear complexion
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oily and acne-prone skin
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acne scars
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blackheads and white heads
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age spots and superficial pigmentation
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dehydrated skin
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fine lines and mild wrinkles
How Many Chemical Peels Do I Need?
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Most individuals require 3 to 5 treatments, after which a maintenance program can be established. A series of chemical peels will result in the thickening of the epidermis (the outer skin layer), which will provide the skin with better hydration levels and long-term anti-ageing protection. Depending on the severity of the skin problem(s) and the area being treated peels can be performed every 2 to 4 weeks during the initial treatment phase, with maintenance peels being performed as required.
What Happens After Each Chemical Peel Treatment?
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Superficial glycolic peel is “the lunchtime treatment”. The procedure takes only 30 to 40 minutes and requires no recovery time, i.e., a client can return to work immediately after the treatment. Some patients may have mild temporary redness, which subsides within 10 to 30 minutes. As mentioned above, an improvement in skin texture and complexion is noticeable immediately after each peel.
Advanced Chemical Peels
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In recent years the use of more advanced, combination peels have become very popular, especially for the treatment of Hyperpigmentation, Acne and Acne scaring and Anti-Aging.
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The combination peels, as the name suggests, combine in one peel formulation two or more of the different AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids, like for example: Glycolic, Mandelic, Citric, Azelaic acids etc.) and BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids like Salicylic acid). The combination of different acids makes the chemical peel procedure more potent and significantly improves the outcome. Some of the advanced combination peels can cause minor skin peeling post treatment (minor skin flaking in some areas) and have a short recovery time (usually 2-4 days).
Advanced combination peels can be performed as separate treatments or more frequently, they constitute the initial part of a main treatment, like – Microneedling or a Needle free Mesotherapy. During the initial skin consultation clients are advised on what type of chemical peel would be the most beneficial for their skin condition.
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Retinol Peel
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Retinol is a form of fat-soluble Vitamin A which is suitable for skin use. It belongs to a group of Vitamin A derivatives know as retinoids. Retinol provides multiple benefits for the skin and, as a highly potent ingredient it is widely used in cosmetic formulations for treating the signs of aging (uneven skin tone, fine lines, enlarged pores, etc), sun damage (rough skin texture, hyper pigmentation), acne and acne scaring. Retinol helps to improve the above-mentioned skin conditions by increasing skin cell and collagen production, providing mild exfoliation, and decreasing excessive sebum production and thereby helping to unclog pores and refine skin texture. Regular use of Retinol containing daily skin care products as well as the professional treatments with Retinol visibly improve aged and/or sun damaged skin, giving it a much fresher, plump, firm and radiant appearance.
One of the most popular treatments in our practice is a 1% Retinol peel that also has additional added active ingredients. It is recommended for clients with fine lines and wrinkles, uneven, dull and sun damaged skin. It is also highly effective for the treatment of hyperpigmentation and acne prone skin and acne scaring. The Retinol peel is a quick and pain free procedure during which the skin is thoroughly cleansed and prepped, and after that the peel is applied to the client’s skin and it should be kept on the skin for 8 hours or longer. After 8 hours the clients can wash it off at home and apply special post treatment serum and cream provided by our practice. Detailed instructions regarding the special post Retinol peel skin care are always provided during the appointment.
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For the next few days after the Retinol peel it is expected that the client may have some minimal downtime, that mostly manifests in mild redness, sensitivity and dryness, and in some cases some degree of superficial skin flaking is possible. However, in many clients there is absolutely no downtime. It all largely depends on an individual’s skin condition prior to the peel. In instances where there is a mild downtime, the signs usually clear within 3 to 5 days.
The effect of the Retinol peel can be appreciated already within a few days post treatment– it promotes a much lighter and more even and clear skin complexion, refined texture, plump and glowing skin. It is highly recommended to do a course of 3 to 4 Retinol peels once every 4 to 6 weeks to obtain substantial and long-lasting improvement in the appearance of the skin.
Before & After
Before Retinol Peel
7 Days After The First
Retinol Peel
Dr. Natela Rekhviashvili, NovaCeuticals
Microdermabrasion (MDA)
DIAMOND TIP (CRYSTAL-FREE) MICRODERMABRASION (MDA) TREATMENT
Microdermabrasion (MDA) is a rejuvenation technique involving controlled mechanical exfoliation of the skin. MDA was introduced in cosmetic dermatology more than two decades ago. Originally, MDA was performed using aluminium oxide crystals and/or sodium chloride salt. Crystal based MDA has a number of “drawbacks” including a harmful effect of crystals that may be inhaled by the client and operator, and partial incrustation of the skin with the crystals is also common (it is difficult to remove all the crystals from the skin). In order to minimize skin incrustation with crystals, higher levels of vacuum suction are used on MDA instruments, which may cause an unpleasant sensation and bruising, making the MDA procedure more sensitive for the client. It is also difficult to obtain a uniform exfoliation of the skin using crystal based MDA.
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The new generation of microdermabrasion instruments is CRYSTAL – FREE. This method overcomes the “drawbacks” of the older method.
About Diamond Tip Microdermabrasion Treatment
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Diamond Tip microdermabrasion is an aesthetic procedure for non-invasive, crystal-free, controlled, and uniform mechanical exfoliation of the skin. Diamond Tip MDA is performed using crushed industrial diamonds mounted on the tips of the applicators and a vacuum suction. MDA causes very little or no discomfort while it gently removes a part of the stratum corneum - the outer layer of the epidermis.
The depth of microdermabrasion with crushed diamonds may vary depending on the skin type and the condition to be treated. Mechanic removal of the superficial layers of the “dead” skin promotes skin regeneration, synthesis of new collagen and elastin, and thus has an anti-ageing effect. An improvement in the treated area is noticeable immediately after the first session – skin appears smoother, younger-looking, and more radiant. These desirable effects should increase over the course of MDA treatment series.
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Microdermabrasion may be performed on the face, neck, décolleté and other parts of the body. It is beneficial for both female and male patients, from the age of 16 years and older, and may be applied to all skin types (including Asian and African skins).
What Can Be Treated With Microdermabrasion?
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A course of MDA treatments will gradually improve the following conditions:
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sun damaged skin
-
enlarged pores
-
poor/rough skin texture and unclear complexion
-
oily and acne-prone skin
-
acne scars
-
blackheads and white heads
-
age spots and superficial pigmentation
-
dehydrated skin
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fine lines and mild wrinkles
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stretch marks
How Many MDA Treatments Do I Need?
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Most patients require 5 to 10 MDA treatments, after which a maintenance program can be established. A course of MDA will result in the thickening of the epidermis (the outer skin layer), which will provide the skin with better hydration levels and a long-term anti-ageing effect. Depending on the severity of the skin problem(s) and the area being treated, MDA procedures can be performed as often as every 10 days to 2 weeks. In most patients, treatment intervals are 2 to 4 weeks.
What Happens After Each MDA Treatment?
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Crystal-free microdermabrasion is “the lunchtime treatment” because the procedure takes only 30 to 40 minutes and requires no recovery time, i.e., a patient can return to work immediately after the treatment. Some patients may have mild temporary redness, which subsides within 10 to 30 minutes. As we mentioned above, an improvement in skin texture and complexion is noticeable immediately after each MDA treatment.
After Microdermabrasion skin feels much softer and looks smooth and radiant. In our Aesthetic practice MDA is often performed in combination with other advanced treatments like laser, IPL or Mesotherapy, e.g., MDA may be performed immediately prior to IPL or laser treatment, or prior to Mesotherapy, etc. Combining advanced skin treatments with Microdermabrasion enhances the overall results. Microdermabrasion is a highly effective, safe, pain free and non-invasive solution to younger and smoother looking skin.